The term "applique" literally means to apply one layer of fabric over another. The underneath fabric is called the background and the patches sewn onto the background are called appliques.

There are a variety of techniques for applique, and some designs better suit one or another of these techniques.

Applique that is constructed over paper templates gives good edges especially for curved edges. This technique was often used for Baltimore Album quilts. However, nowadays many quilters prefer the "needle turn" technique that has narrow seams and no paper templates. The aim of both these methods is to create invisible stitches. Therefore the stitches are tiny, placed vertically rather than the traditional rope-like stitches of hem-stitch.

A technique that has become very popular is the "Blanket Stitch" technique. This technique is usually associated with country style and naive style quilts.

In this tutorial we will look at these three applications.
Note: In all three techniques the pattern pieces need to be reversed.

Paper Templates
Firstly, trace the pattern patch onto paper, photocopy paper, letters or bills are a good weight. I have used a heart shape to illustrate.

Pin and tack the pattern in place on the wrong side of the fabric. Cut out allowing a 6 mm (1/4") seam allowance all around and clip into the concave point at the top of the heart.

Turning in the Seam Allowance.

Begin at the bottom tip. Fold the seam allowance point over and down onto the paper. Begin to tack in place sewing through all layers. Continue along one side, then when the pattern starts to curve, bring the needle up and sew tiny tacking stitches just through the seam allowance about half way between the paper and the edge of the fabric. Sew in this way around the curve until the concave point is reached. Sew one stitch through the paper and gently draw up the tacking stitches.

The seam allowance will draw in around the curved paper. Take the needle back up to the next side of the heart and repeat the tiny tacking stitches until the pattern begins to straighten out again. Sew one stitch through the paper and the bottom fabric and gently draw up the small tacking stitches until the seam allowance curves around the paper template. Baste to the starting point, tuck in the end of the seam allowance and knot off.

Press the patch to give a good crisp edge.

Place all the prepared pieces onto the background, taking care which ones need to be closer to the background and which one on top. Tack them in place and then sew using a fine, blind hem stitch placing the needle vertically down from the last stitch. In this way the stitches will blend with the background fabric. It is important to match the thread colour to the patch colour not the background colour.

Blanket Stitch Applique
Until recently I didn't really like this technique, but now I find it so easy and quick compared to making the paper templates and the three rows of tacking needed in the previous technique, that I tend to use it quite often.

Trace the pattern pieces onto the paper side of the Vliesoflex, this is a fusible webbing that has paper on one side so that the pieces may be ironed in place. Because the pattern piece is ironed onto the wrong side of the fabric, the pattern needs to be reversed. The easiest way is to trace the pattern shape off onto paper using a black texta and then turn the paper over and the shape can usually be seen through on the reverse side. Use this as the pattern shape. Trace it onto the Vliesoflex and cut out. If a number of small shapes need to be cut from the same fabric, don't cut all the individual pieces until it has been ironed in place.

With the paper side up, iron onto the wrong side of the fabric. Cut out, peel off the paper backing.

Place the cut shapes on the background fabric, taking care which shapes need to lie on top of others. Using a steam iron, press each piece in place.

For the sewing, I choose to use thread that is matched to the applique piece. Begin with a small knot and bring the needle up from the back of the block right at the edge of the applique shape. The first stitch is in the same place. Insert the needle into the applique patch so the stitch will be straight and no more than 6 mm (1/4") long.

Bring the needle back up through the loop of the thread at the edge of the patch and only in the background fabric. Continue around the shape until the first stitch is reached. After completing the final stitch insert the needle into the first stitch at the edge of the patch and knot off the thread under the patch on the back.

Needle Turn Applique
Use a short length of thread to avoid knots and makes stitches approx 1/8" apart. Using freezer paper as templates and ironed onto the applique fabric helps to stabilise the fabric to be sewn. As with blanket stitch applique, the pattern shapes must be reversed and then traced onto the freezer paper. Cut out the shapes on the lines. Place the shiny side of the freezer paper onto the right side of the selected fabrics, leaving space for seam allowances between each piece, and iron the freezer paper shapes onto the fabric. Cut around each shape leaving barely 1/4" seam allowance. Clip any concave curves or indentations. Place the applique pieces on the background fabric. Pin, then baste the shapes in place, keep the basting stitches over 1/4" in from the sedge of the freezer paper, to allow space for the seam allowance to be turned under. Working about 1" ahead of the sewing, use the tip of the needle to turn the seam allowance to the inside. Sew in place with the same stitch as the paper method.

When sewn, remove the basting stitches and carefully peel off the freezer paper.

Give the finished block a final press.